Omoide Yokocho Shinjuku

Omoide Yokocho, or "the alley of memories", is one of those places that take you back in time. Located barely a minute's walk from the west exit of Shinjuku, this narrow passage about two hundred metres long is packed with more than sixty small stalls and taverns where the smoke of yakitori has filled the air since dusk. The venues are so tiny that five or six diners fit squeezed at the counter, and that creates a closeness and human warmth hard to find in more modern bars. Yakitori (grilled chicken skewers) is the star dish, although there is also nikomi (tendon stew) and other izakaya dishes. Most establishments charge an otoshi (cover) of about 300 ¥, and a dinner with drinks usually costs between 2.000 and 4.000 ¥ per person. Almost all venues only accept cash. Best time: from 18:00 to find a spot before they fill up. Ideal to combine with a visit to the Golden Gai.